I’m currently in Thailand, immersed in the rather brutal world of Muay Thai.

For those unfamiliar, Muay Thai is a form of martial arts that requires discipline, endurance, and lots of ice to offset the daily bruisings. Training here with seasoned Thai fighters is an experience unlike any other. These athletes, many of whom have been practicing the sport for decades, are absolute animals. They embody a relentless work ethic that can make even the most seasoned foreign fighter feel like a novice.

Beyond the usual crowds of Western tourists and expats, there has been a notable influx of visitors from the Middle East, a fact that hasn’t gone unnoticed by the locals.

However, there’s much more to Thailand than its legendary martial arts tradition. The country is often seen as a paradise of sun, sea, sand, and inordinate amounts of sin. Forgive me, Father!

Shoes, shirt, and self-respect optional

When we hear the words “Sin City,” Las Vegas automatically springs to mind. But what about Pattaya, Thailand’s own version of Las Vegas? Less than 100 miles from Bangkok, this popular beach city takes the concept of sin to an entirely different level.

In short, it has become a magnet for those seeking pleasures of a more sordid nature. While Las Vegas teases visitors with its neon-lit casinos and high-end shows, Pattaya offers something far less polished. It's a city where the temptations are brazenly out in the open, a place where anything seems possible, and often, it is. Welcome to the devil’s playground.

I spent several weeks in Pattaya while continuing my Muay Thai training. The contrast between the discipline of the gym and the chaos of the streets couldn’t have been more stark. The city is overrun with delinquents, many of whom seem to represent the worst of human nature.

Most of these individuals are foreigners, and the vast majority of them are from the U.S. and the U.K. It’s as if Pattaya attracts people who have given up on any semblance of order or moral restraint, choosing instead to wallow in the excesses that the city so freely offers.

Beer for breakfast, legalized weed for lunch, and only God knows what for dinner. The concept of wearing a shirt in public, no matter how out of shape one may be, is much like the offenders themselves: distinctly foreign.

That said, it isn’t all bad. Among the sea of lost souls, I encountered a few genuinely good people, including some elderly U.S. veterans who now make Pattaya their home. These men, who once served their country with honor, now find themselves in a city that feels worlds apart from the values they once defended.

When I inquired about their presence there, even they struggled to provide a coherent answer. After some polite pressing, they spoke kindly about the affordability, the pleasant climate, and the camaraderie they’ve found amidst the city's constant chaos.

Rising tensions

During my time in Pattaya, I saw a side of the city that has shifted dramatically in recent years. Beyond the usual crowds of Western tourists and expats, there has been a notable influx of visitors from the Middle East, a fact that hasn’t gone unnoticed by the locals.

This new wave of tourists has sparked rising tensions, and it's essential to address it without falling into oversimplified labels or accusations of prejudice. The frustration among locals is palpable, and it has little to do with race or religion. Rather, it has to do with behavior — thuggery and outright disrespect toward the people who make this country so welcoming.

Although obnoxious tourists are nothing new, the issues caused by this influx of Middle Eastern visitors are not confined to Pattaya. The nation’s capital has also been feeling the effects, with reports of criminal behavior increasing in certain districts. Scam artists, often operating in sophisticated networks, have been running riot, exploiting both tourists and locals alike. These scams range from simple cons to highly organized operations that leave many victims financially devastated.

It’s worth emphasizing that on the whole, you’d be hard-pressed to find kinder or more accommodating people than the Thai. They embody a grace and warmth that’s rare in such a tourist-heavy country. But even the most patient individuals have their limits. I personally witnessed how some of these newer visitors treated the locals — hotel staff, gym instructors, taxi drivers, and waitresses — with blatant disrespect. At times, it bordered on open contempt, as though the basic decency expected in any social interaction no longer applied.

For a country that prides itself on hospitality, such behavior is deeply unsettling, and the resentment among locals is beginning to simmer. You can sense it in the conversations among the Thai people — who, despite their calm demeanor, are growing increasingly fed up with the lack of courtesy and respect shown by certain foreign visitors. The contrast is sharp; while Thai culture places a strong emphasis on respect, politeness, and humility, the actions of some of these recent arrivals seem to openly defy those values.

The gravity of the situation becomes even more apparent when you consider the fact that these are people who have seen it all.

In a place like Pattaya, where spring break seems to be happening every single day of the year, the boundaries of acceptable behavior are constantly pushed. In many ways, the locals have become desensitized to the usual transgressions that might shock elsewhere.

They’ve witnessed or heard about every conceivable excess — drunken brawls, public indecency, streaking septuagenarians. Yet the fact that many of them are now genuinely up in arms over the behavior of this recent influx of visitors is telling.

They are also growing tired of the “Sin City” label. There were actual protests in the streets just two months ago, with many residents voicing their frustration over Pattaya’s international reputation as a hub of iniquity. This local pushback reveals a desire for change, a demand for the city to be seen as more than just the home of hedonism.

However, Pattaya is undeniably the mecca for those seeking the darker side. It’s a destination for men attracted to the city’s infamous ladyboy culture — though, personally, most definitely not my cup of tea. For those inclined, Pattaya offers an abundance of nightlife catering to every taste imaginable, from go-go bars to the infamous Walking Street, where ladies and men who want to be ladies eye every foreigner with an intensity that's nothing short of theatrical.

Final thoughts

Of course, Pattaya isn't all bad. In fact, it has its own unique charm. The beaches, for instance, remain one of its redeeming features. While not the pristine, postcard-perfect stretches of sand found in other parts of Thailand, Pattaya Beach and nearby Jomtien Beach still offer stunning views and warm waters. And most importantly, they offer a place to escape from the thousands of ladyboys who patrol the streets with a militaristic precision.

There's certainly a quieter side of Pattaya that doesn’t get nearly as much attention. Hidden within the city are pockets of authentic Thai culture — the temples, markets, and the local street food scene that thrives away from the tourist spots. Places like the Sanctuary of Truth, a massive wooden structure filled with exquisite carvings, stand as reminders of the city’s deeper cultural heritage.

The city is, on the whole, a mixed bag. Much like Amsterdam and Prague, it’s full of indecency, but it also offers more, shall we say, respectable options, if you know where to look.

It’s this juxtaposition — between vice and virtue — that makes Pattaya so fascinating yet frustrating for those who call it home. The locals want to reclaim their city from the stereotypes, but given Pattaya’s entrenched reputation, that’s easier said than done.